''That
whale is a damned menace,'' snapped one man, standing at the
float plane dock, a few metres from where Luna and the children
played their game of tug-of-war. ''I want it out of here. It
doesn't belong here.''
Officials
from the federal Department of Fisheries and Oceans agree; this
year, they were prepared to spend approximately $150,000 in an
ambitious scheme to lure the young whale into a net pen. The
plan was to harness the four-year-old whale, lift him into a
container and truck him south, where he would be released and,
hopefully, reunite with his familial pod.
Luna was separated from the other orcas after following an aged
uncle deep into Nootka Sound. The uncle died. Luna, then just a year
old, was unable to navigate his way out. He turned up at a government
dock at the foot of Muchalaht Inlet, about 40 kilometres from the
open sea. He has remained in the area ever since, feeding on wild
salmon and cavorting with boaters, with whom he has occasionally
clashed.
The DFO's efforts to reunite him with his pod failed miserably,
thanks to a counter-campaign launched by the local native people.
Members of the Mowachaht/ Muchalaht First Nation marshalled all their
resources, and tugged at the heartstrings of whale lovers everywhere,
to keep Luna from the clutches of cold-blooded bureaucrats and marine
biologists. Paddling about the sound in war canoes and singing traditional
songs, they drew Luna away from DFO boats last month, scuttling the
reunification plan.
The Mowachaht/Muchalaht say the orca represents the spirit of their
late chief Ambrose Maquinna. Just before dying three years ago, Chief
Maquinna told elders that he wished to return to Nootka Sound as
a killer whale. Luna arrived a few days after his passing.
The battle for the orca has attracted media from across North America.
This summer, news of Luna's situation spread far and wide. Without
doubt, he has become a major tourist attraction.
Children especially adore the whale. They insist the feeling is
mutual. Others aren't so sure. The fact is, no one really knows,
because Luna isn't talking.
What's clear, however, is Luna has become a revenue generator, a
mammalian money-maker in a region that has seen its economy decimated
by the closure of a pulp mill seven years ago.
''I sort of hate to say it, but Luna has become a big draw,'' says
Phillip Lum, a resident of nearby Gold River.
Like hundreds of other folks in the area, Mr. Lum lost his job when
the pulp mill shut down. ''There's not much work around here,'' he
says. ''Tourism is one of the few things we've got going for us.
There's no doubt that people are coming here to see Luna.''
I arrived in Gold River on Wednesday and promptly headed down to
the government dock on Muchalaht Inlet. There was no sign of Luna.
The whale had moved down the inlet, to Nootka Sound, I was told.
If I stuck around until Saturday, I could take a tourist boat to
the old Indian settlement of Yuquot. There, I would surely see the
whale.
So there I was, on Saturday morning, stepping aboard the MV Uchuck
III, a converted freighter. Joining me were about 100 other gawkers.
Everyone was buzzing about Luna.
Eight hours later, we chugged back to port, disappointed. The trip
was fine, the scenery spectacular. But there had been no sign of
Luna. The whale, it seemed, had vanished.
As we approached the landing, a U.S. couple told me of their encounter
with Luna the night before, down at the government dock.
''We played with him for at least an hour,'' bragged Bob, an entomologist
from Texas. ''It was awesome.''
Just then, someone shrieked. ''It's Luna!'' No, it wasn't Luna.
It was a piece of seaweed, floating past.
The Uchuck drew closer to the dock. Up went another cry. Another
alleged Luna sighting. And this time, there he was, flashing about
the water beneath us, his dorsal fin slicing the surface.
The Uchuck docked. Luna swam behind the stern. We all rushed to
the end of the boat. No one wanted to get off. Luna then swam over
to a small aluminum craft and began chewing on a fender hanging from
its side.
''You know,'' said a Uchuck worker, ''you would get a better view
if you just went over to that boat.''
So we did, about a dozen of us. There, we got up close and personal
with the whale. Luna sprayed water at us through his blowhole. Kids
knelt down, and touched his giant nose as it poked above the surface.
''No petting,'' shouted one of their parents. ''We don't want Luna
to go to the aquarium.''
Then began the game with the fender. A boy yanked it from the whale's
mouth and dangled it in the air. Luna made a strange warbling sound
and lunged at it. The crowd screamed with delight. This went on for
another half-hour. The game would have lasted even longer, had the
parents not grown tired of it.
Luna wasn't going anywhere. But I had to wonder: Was this really
something that should carry on?
Luna didn't seem the angry type, but accidents do happen. What would
be the reaction if Luna carved a chunk of flesh from a child's skinny,
unprotected arm? Who would be blamed? What would happen if the plastic
fender somehow got lodged in Luna's throat and caused the whale to
choke?
Strictly speaking, such contact with Luna is illegal. The federal
Fisheries Act says: ''No person shall disturb a marine mammal except
when fishing for marine mammals under the authority of these Regulations.''
The children on Saturday had no such concerns. To them, their encounter
with the orca was simply ''cool.'' One of their parents, however,
did have some second thoughts.
''It does seem a little too good to be true, getting so close to
a whale like that,'' acknowledged Mike Hoekstra, visiting the area
with his wife and two children. ''It's almost unnatural.''
I had to agree.
© National
Post 2004
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